Smithfield Market, a staple of London’s food trade for nearly 900 years, is preparing to close its doors, marking the end of an era for the City of London, the Financial Times reports.
The announcement of its closure by the City of London Corporation in 2028 has left many butchers and traders mourning the loss of a landmark that has played a crucial role in the city’s meat distribution.
The market, which operates well into the night, is a bustling hub where lorries filled with pig carcasses and other meat products block the streets, and workers prepare fresh cuts for butchers and restaurants. The sound of cleavers and saws fills the air as butchers carve meat for customers who rely on the market for their fresh supplies. But this vibrant scene will soon be replaced by redevelopment, as the City pushes forward with plans to transform the area.
Smithfield has been a fixture of the capital’s food trade since the 12th century, initially serving as a livestock market before transitioning to its current role as a meat wholesale hub in the Victorian era. The market became a symbol of London’s bustling trade in imported meat, with shipments arriving from as far as Australia as early as the late 19th century. For decades, it served as a vital link in the city’s food supply chain, especially in the post-war years when it reached its peak.
However, with the rise of supermarkets and changes in food distribution, the market’s prominence began to decline in the 1960s. Despite ongoing debates about its future, Smithfield endured, until recent financial pressures led to the decision to close it. The City of London Corporation, which owns the market, cited the high costs of updating the infrastructure and the increasing value of the land as reasons for its closure. The markets will be replaced by a new Museum of London and a shift in focus towards residential and commercial development.
The closure follows years of negotiations, and in a deal brokered over four months, the City agreed to compensate traders with £150 million in exchange for their support in moving forward with the plans. For many long-time traders, this has been a difficult pill to swallow. Tony Lyons, chair of the London Fish Merchants Association, expressed deep sadness over the decision, noting how the closure would affect smaller businesses and independent traders, who will struggle without a central location to supply their products.
The loss of Smithfield is expected to have significant ramifications for London’s meat industry, particularly for smaller butchers who rely on the market for a wide variety of cuts at affordable prices. Without a central wholesale market, many fear that costs will rise, making it harder for small businesses to survive in an already competitive market dominated by larger suppliers.
Smithfield follows in the footsteps of other iconic London wholesale markets, such as Covent Garden, Spitalfields, and Borough, which have all succumbed to the pressures of redevelopment. Once thriving centers of commerce, these markets were gradually transformed into retail destinations, and their traders relocated to more peripheral locations. Now, with Smithfield’s impending closure, a key part of London’s historic food trade will be lost forever.
The City’s plans to move the market operations to a new site in Dagenham were initially floated but later scrapped due to the high costs of building new facilities. Instead, a decision was made to close the market entirely, a choice that has left many disappointed, especially those who believed that relocating Smithfield would have preserved its legacy while meeting the demands of modern logistics.
The closure of Smithfield will also mark the end of a unique cultural experience. Over the years, the market has been more than just a place of business; it has been a melting pot where butchers, restaurateurs, and city workers alike have gathered in the early hours of the morning. It has seen the rise of local watering holes, such as the Fox & Anchor pub, where butchers and night shift workers rubbed shoulders with late-night revellers and early morning commuters.
Yet, with the city rapidly evolving and the construction of new residential and commercial spaces taking precedence, the old-world charm of Smithfield is slowly fading away. For many who have worked at the market for decades, its closure feels like another casualty of London’s ongoing gentrification—a city continually reshaped to accommodate the demands of development.
As Smithfield prepares for its final days, traders and workers are left to reflect on its long history. For many, the market represented a vital part of London’s food heritage, a link to the past that will soon be severed. The closure marks not just the loss of a physical space, but also the disappearance of a community of workers who shared a common bond through their trade.
Despite the closure, the legacy of Smithfield will live on in the memories of those who worked there and the generations of Londoners who relied on its goods. As the City of London continues its transformation, many will mourn the passing of this historic market, and the personal connections it fostered among its traders, buyers, and workers.
