The iconic döner kebab, a staple of Berlin’s street food scene and a beloved dish across Europe, could face a major shake-up. Turkey has applied for EU protection of the “döner kebab” name, potentially impacting kebab shops and customers throughout Germany, The Associated Press reports.
The application, which aims to secure “traditional specialty guaranteed” status for the döner kebab, outlines strict specifications for the meat, including age requirements for beef, specific marinades, and slice thickness. This has sparked controversy and raised concerns within the German food industry.
“From the government to the streets, everyone is eating döner kebab,” says Deniz Buchholz, owner of Kebap With Attitude, a popular döner restaurant in Berlin’s trendy Mitte neighborhood. The döner kebab industry in Germany alone generates an estimated €2.3 billion annually, and €3.5 billion across Europe.
However, Turkey’s application appears to exclude popular variations found in Germany, such as turkey and veal kebabs, as well as the inclusion of vegetables. This has left many German kebab shop owners questioning the future of their beloved dish and the potential impact on their businesses.
“We have taken note of the application from Turkey with some astonishment,” said Germany’s Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture in a statement.
The European Commission is currently reviewing Turkey’s application and will decide by September 24th whether 11 objections, including one from Germany, are valid. If so, Germany and Turkey will have six months to negotiate a compromise.
The döner kebab has even found its way into Germany’s political sphere. The Left Party has called for government intervention to address rising kebab prices, while German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier engaged in “döner diplomacy” by bringing a kebab shop owner and a skewer of meat to Turkey during his recent visit.
